![]() ![]() The +12 V will always be on waiting for the ECU to provide aground path for the control circuit that kicks in the fuel pump relay the the big "switch" in the relay turns on to deliver the +12 V to the fuel pump. You don't need to be cranking your engine over to do the reading, just have the key in on position to kick in the main relay. You should +12 V between each of the terminals and ground ( maybe use the negative battery terminal)ĭon't measure the voltage across any two terminals in the socket. Then it goes to both connector pins in the relay socket. The power comes from the battery, through the INJ fuse then through the main relay when the ignition is turned to ON (which must be working because nothing would turn on if the fuse was blown or the main relay wasn't working.) I had Lovely Assistant try to start the car like this but I couldn't hold the leads on steady enough due to mosquito swarms LOL. When I apply 12v to the fuel pump I can hear it whirr, but it's not loud. ![]() I tested both relays with some leads and my spare battery, both go click when juice is applied to the signal spades. Now I'm working on the car after an unexpected tow truck ride last week, shut off after leaving a gas station.īecause the fuse box relay spot is noticeably charred, I swapped the entire fuse box from my parts car (which ran beautifully before the rust rendered it inoperable and I sold the motor), as the parts car box has mere discoloration. ![]() Previously I "fixed" a no-start by swapping a fuel pump relay (the black one labeled Circuit Or SPV on the cover chart) from my parts car. So I suspect juice isn't flowing to the relay. When I have my lovely assistant try to start the car, I'm reading zero volts to the fuse box connectors for the signal side of the relay, and zero volts across the connectors for the power side of the relay. Question: does power have to pass through any fuse before going to the fuel pump relay? ![]()
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